Before you put on your custom tuxedo, you must design it. So here is the necessary information and advice for your own time at the tailor.
Step 1: Figure Your Size
Ready-to-wear tuxedos are sized the same way as suits. If you know your suit size, you can skip this step and go on to the next one. If not, follow these directions for figuring your suit size:
Measure the circumference of your chest at the widest point (just under the arms for most men). Have a friend help so you can keep your arms loose at your sides. Round up to the nearest whole inch. This is your jacket size. Determine whether you need a short (S), regular (R), or long (L) jacket.
Determine your trouser size by measuring your waist (where the top of the trousers sit, at your natural waist) and your inseam (from the inside of your thigh where it meets your crotch down to the heel of your foot). You shouldn’t be wearing shoes when you measure the inseam.
Men buying custom tuxedos will want to provide more detailed measurements for their tailor.
Step 2: Identify the Tuxedo You Want
Select a colour for the base of the jacket and trousers:
- Black — most proper black-tie option
- Midnight blue — technically allowed, but aggressive by formal standards
- White — for tropical-weather formal events only, especially. cruises
Select a “facing” material for the lapels and trouser piping:
- Satin — smooth and slightly reflective
- Grosgrain — ribbed and less lustrous than satin
The colour of the facing should always match the tuxedo fabric — black silk for a black jacket, midnight blue for midnight blue, and so on.
Select a jacket lapel style:
- Shawl — classic dinner jacket style; a simple curved shape
- Peaked — slightly flashier style with pointed “wings” near the top
- Notch — not recommended; considered a modern error by traditionalists
Select a waist covering:
- Cummerbund — silk sash at the waist (should match lapels/piping)
- Dress waistcoat — backless vest with small lapels
Waist coverings should match the colour of the jacket and facings. Unmatched, dark-coloured cummerbunds are becoming accepted, but are still very fashion-forward by formal wear standards. Coloured waistcoats are strictly a novelty item.
Select a shirt collar style:
- Wing — high collar with points off the shirt; most traditional style
- Turndown — collar points lie flat against the shirt; never button-down
Select a shoe style:
- Dress pumps — heeled black pumps with a silk bow
- Black balmoral oxfords — unadorned and polished to a high sheen
Purchase the additional black-tie necessities. Note that you do not have an option on most of these — there is only one acceptable style:
- White dress shirt with studs (not buttons) for both cuffs and shirtfront
- Black silk tie (same material as the jacket facing)
- Formal trousers (match jacket, with silk piping on the outer seams)
- Boutonniere or white pocket square as desired
Many stores will offer tuxedos with colourful items or unusual styles. These are not recommended for purchase. A tuxedo is a hefty investment, and you want one you can wear to all black tie events. Be firm in insisting on a true black tie ensemble, not prom wear. Looking for where to buy Tuxedo in Nigeria? Visit Dmwardrobe.com for a bespoke tuxedo at affordable price.